Descon U.S.S. Vesta

Scratch - U.S.S. Vesta {Scratch}

Contributed by Ryan Coleman

Manufacturer:

U.S.S. Vesta
(Contributed - by Ryan Coleman)

Idea

Once again, my imagination and the spare parts laying around got the better of me, and the U.S.S. Vesta was born. I think it looks futuristic and somewhat cool. The capability to cluster with some extra mini's also adds some excitement to the design.

Diagrams

Here's a small diagram view of the completed rocket: [Diagram]

Pictures

Here's an unpainted but completed picture:
[Rocket Pic]

Flight Report

First flight. May 30. Nice day, no wind, sunny. Flight on B6-4 severely arced (as somewhat expected). Ejection was at apogee and it recovered nicely on a 18" chute. As a result, I'm trying to consider how much weight would be necessary on the underside for it to fly straight. Maybe it just needs more power. Definitely less than a B6-4 is not recommended. Unfortunately, the camera was not cooperating and the pictures will probably not come out.

Second flight. June 28. Hot, light breeze. Went for the cluster, 1 B6-4, and 2 A3-4Ts. Twisted leads together (the motors are mounted close enough). I used a Estes Command Control (one of their few decent products), any 12 volt or higher system is recommended for clusters. All three lit, model jumped off the pad. The model did not arc this time, it went almost straight up, slightly rolling (cool!). Ejection was just about a half-second before apogee, a B6-6 for the main motor might be o.k. The 12" parachute brought the model down. Because of the slightly premature ejection, and perhaps a shock cord that could be a little longer, a dent developed at the top end of the tube. It was bent back into place without damage. Still no flight picture :(

Parts

12" length of BT-50
3" length of BT-20 (main motor mount)
20-50 Centering Rings x 2
Engine block for BT-20
BT-50 45' diagonal cut from 2 11/16" to 1 11/16" (Upper)
BT-50 45' diagonal cut from 2 1/4" to 1 1/4" (Lower)
1 7/8" BT-5 (Upper)
7 1/8" BT-5 (Lower)
Engine Block for BT-5 x 2
5 3/8" BT-5 (Upper Wing)
Endcaps for BT-5 from middle of Centering Rings x 2
1 3/8" BT-5 Paper Conical NoseCone
3 3/8" Small Plastic Sticks x 2
Small Strips of thin Cardstock
30" length of 1/8" Sewing Elastic
Paper Shock Cord Mount
Launch Lug
12" or 18" plastic or mylar parachute
4 1/8" length of BT-4 (10.5 mm)
2" length of BT-2 (6 mm) x 2
2 1/4" length of BT-2
2 5/8" length of BT-2 x 2
3 1/4" length of BT-2 x 2
3 3/4" length of BT-2
Endcap for BT-4
Endcap for BT-50
1/2" length of BT-50
some Clay
1/8" Balsa Stock

Here's a scan of the Fins:
[Template]

Construction Outline

Main Body

Engine Mount

Glue the Engine Block into the Front of the Motor Mount and one ring at the top and one 3/8" from the back. When dry, glue the whole thing so it sticks out 3/8". Add an engine hook if you like, I don't.

Nose Cone and Recovery Systems

Instead of a typical nosecone, which I had none of, I opted for something completely different. The BT-4 tube forms the center of the nosecone and the multiple BT-2 tubes go around the sides to center it perfectly in the BT-50. All the ends of the tubes are even. I glued mine in the following order:

The second shortest length
To either side of it, the shortest length
The third shortest lengths on both sides of those
The second longest lengths go next
The longest length. This is not a perfect fit, but it still looks cool

Glue the shockcord to the inside of the BT-4. Push some clay in the top just for stability safety for the paranoid. Then glue on the front BT-4 endcap. Cut a small hole in the BT-50 endcap, thread the shockcord through it, and then glue it on. Glue the BT-50 ring 7/8" from the back of the 'nose' to act as a forward stop. By the way, these multiple tubes are NOT missile launchers, phasers, laser beams, nuclear weapon devices, or cannons of any sort.
I used a long length of sewing elastic and a typical paper mount. I also use snap swivels on all my parachutes, so I'll just throw an old one on. 12" will be fine for smaller fields, 18" for larger ones.

External Assemblies

Left and Right 'wings'

The outer parts of each wing go forward. I held mine together with masking tape and glued them together. Sand your favorite airfoil to each after you glue them. Also, a small triangle will need to be cut off the back of each outer portion. Sand and Seal using your favorite method and then attach on opposite sides of the tube 3/8" from the rear. I angled mine 'down' about 3 or 4 degrees.

'Upper' Assembly

Glue a BT-5 engine block into the front of the shortest tube. Then glue the half-block made from balsa or cardstock into the same end. Glue the assembly with the blocks at the same end as the diagonal cut into the longer of the side BT-50 pods. It should stick out 3/8" like the main tube. The closed half should face the tube. When it's all dry, glue it to the main tube between the wings so that the end of the BT-50s and the end of the Engine Mounts are even.
Sand and Seal the Upper Fins. The cross goes in the slot in the other piece. It should be in the middle. Glue the root of the fin so the cross piece is away from the main tube and down to the top of the longer BT-50 piece.
Take the middle length of BT-5. Glue the cone into it, slanted down so one edge is even with the tube. This tube does NOT hold a motor. It is for aesthetic purposes only. Glue it to the top of the upper fin and cross piece so it sits 1/2" back from the back of the cross piece.
Lastly, glue the plastic sticks to either side of the cross piece so they look like forward pointing antennae. These are NOT guns, lasers, cannons, or any weapon at all.

Lower Assembly

Start by gluing the smaller diagonal cut BT-50 piece to the 'underside' of the tube so it is even with the main tube. Push the Engine Block into the back of the tube. Cut or punch a vent hole at the top and glue the whole endcap onto the front of the tube. When dry, glue it to the underside of the tube 3/8" from the rear through the diagonal cut tube. The vent hole should face out.
Sand and seal the lower fin. Glue it to the Diagonal cut BT-50 and the BT-5 tube as far back as will fit.

Launch Lug

Glue half the lug next to a wing. Glue the top half 8" up the tube.

Decor

Strips of Cardstock

I used those strips of cardstock (from a Estes Sidewinder kit) to add some futuristic looking details to the main body. I cut down the biggest piece to 3/4" x 3 1/8" and wrapped it 2" back from the nose. I then used a 6 3/8" x 1/8" strip from the upper diagonal tube to the wrap I just put on.

Paint

My g/f has been complaining that all my 'futuristic' type rockets look too dismal (shades of grey), so I gave my U.S.S. Vesta a white undercoat as a prep surface for silver. I masked off most of the model, except for some 'wing' areas, the upper diagonal cut BT-50, some fins, and a small stripe around the cardstock ring. Painted silver over the white, then removed all the tape. I then painted the inside of the 'nosecone' tubes black.

Flying Tips

Single-engine flying.

A B6-4 is suitable for low-altitude test flights. A C6-5 should be just fine. You'll have to friction fit the motor, which isn't hard. Just wrap masking tape around the motor until you can't yank it out with your fingers. Prep the rocket just like any other, a bit of masking tape may be needed to get the nose cone fit a little tighter. I'd use a 12" chute or maybe an 18" if you have the field. No damage was taken to the rocket on either landing on a 12", though.

Clustered flying

Because of the asymmetrical nature of this rocket, it probably isn't the perfect first cluster. Depending on your skill, you could try it for your first cluster if you want.
Here are the motor combinations I'd stick with.
B6-4 & 2x1/2A3-2T
B6-4 & 2x1/2A3-4T
B6-4 & 2xA3-4T
B6-6 & 2xA3-4T
B6-4 & 2xA10-3T
B6-6 & 2xA10-3T
C6-5 & 2x1/2A3-2T
C6-5 & 2x1/2A3-4T
C6-7 & 2xA3-4T
C6-7 & 2xA10-3T
Remember, a B and two 1/2As is equal to a mid-C motor. A B and two As is equal to a C. A C and two 1/2As or As is equal to a low D. This will take the rocket pretty high. I also haven't flown it yet in that configuration. If you built carefully, even white or yellow glue with fillets can hold up the low-D power.
This rocket is an in-line cluster, requiring no extra clips to launch, extra a heavy duty battery is mandatory. 12 volts minimum. Friction fit the main motor first, and then the sidepods. I lined my motors up at the back end. Now, starting with one of the mini's, put in the igniter very carefully and then insert plug. Next, put the igniter/plug into the main motor. Do the last mini now. I installed the igniters so that the little paper strips are parallel to each other, and perpendicular to the line of motors. Now take one lead from each motor, and twist together and away from the other. Do the same with the remaining three.
Install the parachute and wadding like usual. Put the whole thing on the rod, hook up the clips well to each twisted threesome of leads. Launch it. If they all light, you're in luck. If only one or two light, you may be in trouble. This is why you are careful to insert the igniters properly.
A Cluster will look pretty cool. A good picture is obtained by taking it from the side, so (hopefully) all three plumes will be visible. (Even though I haven't managed it yet on this rocket).

Future for the U.S.S. Vesta

Hopefully I'll be able to test out some more motor combos. Perhaps the C & 2xA will be next to see if it will hold. If anyone has any problems, questions, or comments, contact me by email below. rcoleman@erinet.com

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