North Coast Rocketry Eliminator

North Coast Rocketry - Eliminator {Kit} (K-45) [1987-]

Contributed by Nick Hills

Manufacturer: North Coast Rocketry
(by Paul Gray - 07/01/02)

Background

The Eliminator is NCR's highest flying rocket. It gains a lot of altitude for its size, making it one of the most popular mid power rockets in the model rocketry world. The rocket itself has been made by North Coast Rocketry for many years. However, the design was improved and new features were added when North Coast Rocketry was bought by Estes. And with Estes' powerful marketing, it has become a very well known rocket.

Construction

[Rocket Pic]Depending on what you want out of the rocket, it can be built one of two ways. You can always build it exactly like the instructions tell you. However, there is a slight difference in motor selection with this rocket. The original design is for North Coast F62 and G70 Dark Star motors. However, all Dark Star motors are single use, and therefore, are very expensive. If you want to use the cheaper AeroTech RMS motors, the rocket will need some modifications.

First of all, NONE of the AeroTech motors will fit inside of any of the North Coast rockets. Obviously, they want to make sure they sell a lot of Dark Star motors with their rockets. But not very many people I know have trees in their back yard that grow the money needed for the $12/flight needed for the Dark Star motors.

If you wish to use AeroTech motors, you will need to replace the motor tube that comes in the kit with a LOC/Precision 29 millimeter motor tube. The LOC 29 millimeter motor mount tubing is sold in lengths of at least 76 centimeters. You'll need to cut it down to a tube the proper length for the rocket. Then, follow the instructions for putting together the motor mount. But remember that you will need to sand the inside diameter of the centering rings in order to get them to properly fit onto the 29 millimeter motor tube.

In addition, a red retainer ring is supplied in the kit. This will not work with AeroTech motors. It will not fit over the rear gold closure of the AeroTech reload motors. Instead, you will have to use a retainer of your choice. I have information on a common retainer which I used for my Eliminator in the segment Motor Retention.

I also recommend installing a LOC Modular Baffle Unit. Wadding isn't very reliable with larger diameter rockets, at least the North Coast wadding isn't.

The six decimeter parachute that comes in the kit is a little too small. I would recommend using a seven decimeter parachute.

Other than the modifications for AeroTech motors, the quality of the kit is very high. It features T3 fin attachment for extra strength, strong plastic centering rings, and an excellent shock cord mount. I recommend having a crimping tool handy for when you install the shock cord mount. The shock cord mount is a steel cable which connects via loop to the forward centering ring of the motor mount. Then., a loop is made on the other end of the cable toward the front of the rocket, which is where you tie your shock cord to. The loops are held together with metal sleeve connectors. The sleeve connectors slide onto the cable at the bottom of the loops, and then crimped to be held in place. This is a very strong and reliable method of mounting the shock cord, and the entire recovery system.

When assembling the motor mount, its easy to get confused. Go over the instructions several times before you glue the motor mount together. It especially gets confusing when you glue the motor mount inside of the rocket. The instructions say to put a band of epoxy inside of the body tube at the front of the fin slots and then feed the shock cord through the tube and slide the motor mount in. This isn't the proper way to install a motor mount that has a shock cord attached to it because you are too likely to get epoxy on the shock cord, which will weaken it. What I suggest is, do not tie on the shock cord after you put the steel cable shock cord mount on the motor mount. Its pretty easy to avoid getting epoxy on the steel cable since it is stiff and doesn't move all over the place inside of the body tube. If a little bit of epoxy gets on it, it shouldn't affect it since it is steel. The loop of the steel cable where the shock cord attaches will be near the front end of the body tube. You will be able to tie the shock cord on easily.

Remember also that the fins will attach to notches in the centering rings. When you glue the motor mount in, make sure that the notches are aligned with the fin slots, and test fit the fins while the epoxy is setting to ensure proper alignment.

The constant warping of the birch plywood fins drove me nuts. Take a look at your fins, and if they're very warped, boil some water on the stove. Hold each fin in the steam making sure that all areas of the fin are being steamed. Steam the fins for a minute, and then stack them under heavy books for a day or two. This won't get them totally flat, but it will get them flat enough so that they won't make the rocket unstable or squirrelly. The only thing that the rocket could possibly do in flight is roll, but rolling can add stability.

Flight

The Eliminator is an outstanding flyer. The Eliminator is a very stable rocket that can reach altitudes up to nearly 457.2 meters. It flies well on F62 Dark Star motors, but is spectacular to watch on AeroTech G33 Black Jack and G64 White Lightning motors. It refuses to weathercock, and its lift offs are slow and realistic.

Grades

Design: A 
Construction: C 
Flight: A+ 

As you can tell, construction isn't very easy. This rocket is a good one if you're tired of the same old AeroTech and LOC rockets every time, but like all mid power rockets, it is not recommended for beginners. I also do not recommend it as a first mid power rocket. I only recommend it if you have at least a year of experience with mid power rockets.



(Contributed - by Dave Reynolds) 

Note: For more Eliminator pictures, visit Dave's site.

[Rocket Pic]The Eliminator kit is a kit I highly recommend. It has the Estes glossy design packaging and the design of the rocket is sleek and easy to build. This is a good kit to start out with and will get on you on the way to high power in good kit design. The only problem with this kit is the slightly smaller engine tube. It is designed for North Coast Rocketry's 'Dark Star' engines, but will except a 29mm reloadable casing. Anyway, if you are going into high power you will save money by using reloadables in the first place. Because of the motor tube difference I give this kit a 90% rating. It would get a 100% if it had a 29mm tube instead of 28.987mm. I think this was done so Estes would be sure of the success of their "Dark Star' engines. However the 'Dark Star' engines are excellent motors, the only problem the 'G' motors are not yet available. Well, look at the pictures and see this rocket in flight with the 'Dark Star' F62-6 motor, they do have an impressive black smoke trial.

The Eliminator Kit

Estes is serious about mid-high power in this kit. The heavy slotted body tube, the thick slotted engine mount rings, and the steel cable gorilla shock cord mount are designed with 'heavy duty' in mind. I liked the laser cut plywood fins however, I recommend reinforcing the fins with fiberglass & epoxy if going to fly on an H reloadable engine. This kit has a 24" nylon parachute and a extra long heavy shock cord. The decal sheets are cool, one chrome trim and a Eliminator name decal. This kit should be put together with epoxy only! Use 15 minute epoxy to mount root edge of fins and to glue on centering rings to engine tube. Use 30 minute epoxy to make fillets for fins and engine mount tube, and for fiberglassing fins surfaces use 2 hour epoxy. the engine tube is just slightly smaller than 29mm. Only 29mm reloadables and North Coast's Dark Star engines will fit. you can use a LOC/Precision 29 mm tube, with only minimal sanding to engine mount rings. 

[Rocket Pic]The 'Eliminator' in Flight

The Eliminator's first flight was at the 'Danville 97'high power meet on October 25, 1997. It flew on a F62-6 Dark Star motor and flew perfectly straight on a very windy day. The altitude was about 1100 feet. perfect chute deployment drifted about 1/2 mile. I was going to try my level one certification with this rocket with a H reload but because of the high winds I decided to wait. This rocket is definitely a winner! I highly recommend this kit for sport flying. It is a straight flyer!
Other Reviews
  • North Coast Rocketry Eliminator (Mod) By Gary Sinclair (December 1, 2010)

    Kevlar sock reinforcement, payload bay created, fully slotted body tube for external fin can assembly. Modified to take Aerotech 29mm reloads up to an I200.   Modifications: The list of modifications for this kit included: (1) Created an 11.8" payload bay out of the original long body tube. (2) Airframe has been reinforced using a Giant Leap Kevlar Sock with West Systems ...

  • North Coast Rocketry Eliminator By Nick Hills

    Brief: This is a simple 3 fin and a nose cone rocket. It is straight forward and easy to build. It would make a fairly good first mid-power rocket. Construction: Upon opening the box everything looked to be in good shape, but when I laid the plywood fins down on a table, I noticed that they were warped. So they were put under a few hundred pounds of pellet bags for a few days and they ...

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