Model Rocket Building Blog
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 1 PartsI’ll be in transit from Manila, Philippines to Orlando over the next day or so there may not be any blog posts. Thanks for your patience. While on the cruise I wrote an article for possible online publication about how to shape Nike style fin diamond tapers. When I get back I’ll be ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 2, Engine Mount and FinsThe engine mount was pretty standard except the Kevlar line is run to the outside edge of the upper ring. I ran the line to the center. Both rings had a large notch for engine hook movement. Normally just the lower ring has the larger notch. The upper strake fins are cut from the 1/8" ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 3, Fin ShapingI checked the ends of the longer strakes against the 90 degrees on my angle. The angled ends are wedge sanded at 5/32" from the tip. You'll have to get a sanding block to sand the wedge shaped fins. 220 grit was used for rough shaping. The fins were filled with thinned CWF. The ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 4, Nose Weight InstallThe half ounce of clay weight was rolled into a cylinder to see how long the recess hole would have to be. With the cylinder at 1//2" diameter it was about 2" tall. Mark the center of the the flat shoulder end before any drilling. A 3/16" diameter drill was taped off at 2" so I'd know ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 5, Tail ShroudsI scanned and printed off a few extra shrouds and fin wraps to be safe. I'll be making "Super Shrouds" or double nested shrouds this time. Go to the Apogee Peak Of Flight Newsletter #349 HERE for more detailed instructions. Why do the Super Shroud? It's simply stronger. Many will coat a ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 6, Tail ShroudsTIP: Try to make shrouds with the printing on the inside. I wish vendors would print shrouds with "Shroud #1" or "Shroud #2" outside the part border area. Paint may not always cover up the black ink. It's tougher to line up the glue tab, you'll have to transfer the tab edge line to the ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 7, Tail ShroudsSet a glue line at the centering ring joint and slide the slightly flared shroud end down onto the glue. The instructions say to glue the tail cone shroud onto the end of the coupler. The shroud actually overlaps the coupler end. Lay the small glue line on the side of the coupler. Press ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 8, Strake GluingThe front of the strake was traced full size onto the instruction sheet. The front and rear taper is 5/32" wide. The taper lines were drawn and extended past the sides of the outline tracing. this make it easier to draw consistent width pencil lines without getting out a ruler each time. Set ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 9, Strake CoversNormally I'd score a fold line using the rolled over back (handle) of a razor blade. (Tape over the blade so you won't cut your fingers.) This technique works well for a rounded leading edge fold. This cover pieced needed a sharp square fold. TIP: For a more accurate cut right on the ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 10, Strake CoversI ended up scoring the folds by doing what the instructions said - Cut about halfway through the card stock with a sharp knife. Fold on the cut line. You've got to be very careful when cutting a fold line. It's easy to cut through the card stock and ruin the piece. The upper fold is the cut ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 11, Lower Fin Cover WrapsThe fins were sprayed with one thick coat of primer/filler. Some builders do multiple primer and filling steps, I just spray and sand once. Here I'm using 400 grit on a block to remove most off the filler leaving some and filling any remaining grain pores. You can see there is more filler ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 12, Lower Fin Cover WrapsWith some of the water based CWF filler exposed most glues will be absorbed for a good bond. Again I'm using a glue stick, perfect for gluing these pieces in place. It's not as messy as white glue and allows for some repositioning before it dries. While applying the glue stick I use the ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 13, Tight Sanding TIPI wanted to sand close to the reinforcement pieces but folding a piece of sandpaper in half could cause scratches at sharp edge. Another use for a Q-tip: The cotton tip was dipped in water and the excess shaken off. The round tip was flattened with my thumbnail. Wrap some 400 grit ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 14, Fin GluingI like to keep templates complete for any repairs down the road. The fin marking guide was transferred onto 20 lb. copy paper. Here's the fin guide in place for marking. After the fins were marked the holding tape was lifted and the guide rotated 90 degrees to be sure the pencil marks ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build Part 15, Fillets and Launch LugAlways a favorite part of a build is the dry fit. The models always look different in person. The strakes are long so apply the fillets 1/2 the length of the root edge. Smooth one half side then do the other side. Go from the center to the end of the fin strake. If you were to apply glue ...[Read More]
FlisKits Tartar Build FinishedThe tail cone was sprayed with aluminum before gluing in place. The nose cone was sprayed white, off the model. The body was painted gloss red. Then all three painted assemblies were assembled. The engine hook and outside shroud seam was lined up under a fin. I was happy with the ...[Read More]
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