After constructing and flying a few Estes kits, and building the Aerotech Arreux, I thought I'd try my hand at building a scale missile from The Launch Pad.  Having never tried their kits, I was in for some surprises. Upon receiving the HAWK kit, I opened to find no decals, thin body tubing (like Estes), and a small Mylar chute with thread for shroud lines. I decided to deviate from the design a bit to insure what I thought would make the HAWK more durable.

The instructions are great, all parts included, and a nice layout to outline the painting and detail work.

Construction:

The nose cone is shaped to a point by adding a paper cone to the top.  The instructions say to "paint" the paper cone with thin CA to make it tough and aide against sanding damage. I upgrading it by filling the paper cone with epoxy just before attaching to the nose cone and coated it entirely with finishing epoxy. This would make the cone easy to sand and shape, as well as to insure it would not be damaged by hard landings. 

The tail cone is made from paper like the nose addition. After attaching to the main airframe, I coated with finishing epoxy and feathered into the airframe. I also epoxied a length of stiff cardboard around the inside of the extension to "beef up" the inner tube so no damage would occur from hard landings.

The airframe is supplied in 2 parts with a coupler. I used tite bond wood glue to bond and then coated the seam with finishing epoxy.  There is a chute compartment floor ring (with 8 1/4" holes or a big 1" hole) that is installed later, 6" from the top of the frame so upon launch the chute will not slide down and change the CG.

The fins are long but are easy to make (even the small detail on the ends) with the supplied tracing sheet. Once attached to the airframe (I used 5 min epoxy) and filleted (with 15 min epoxy), I coated them with finishing epoxy. They are fairly durable but because of the balsa core, a hard impact will make the epoxy chip off. You could paint them with CA. Next time I would fiberglass the fins and the airframe to aide in durability.

Painting is easy as it is all flat white. The lettering and block detailing was done with decals I made with Labco decal paper, printed from my computer and copier, and fine pinstriping tape. Once applied the entire rocket was coated with matt finish Krylon.

For recovery, I upgraded the shock cord from the 1/4" elastic to 1/2" elastic and made it 6 feet long. I attached it with tite bond to the inside of the airframe tube with the paper anchor supplied but made the anchor a bit bigger. I also attached a Nomex® chute protector from Pratt Hobbies. I also use a few pieces of Estes wadding to insure no damage to the chute. I use a 24" nylon chute.

1st flight was with a F24-4W reload. It Came off the pad nice and straight and went about 1000'. Ejection was perfect at 4 secs. and it landed under the 24" chute with no damage or scratches what so ever.

2nd flight (or should I say almost) The tail slide down and wedged it on the stand off making it stick to the pad. No damage but would use a used motor case on the bottom of the rod next time to prevent this from happening.

3rd flight. Disaster struck! Disaster struck! I accidentally loaded and E18 instead of the F39-4T. Not enough initial thrust and was lazy off the pad causing it to weather cock and end up as a ballistic into the ground sideways. Nose cone damaged by tearing out the bottom and also destroyed the top 9" of the airframe (right to the top of where the fins attach to the frame). All fins survived and where slighted chipped in small places.

I guess that teaches me to mark and bag every reload kit and not rush to get that last launch in. 

It's been along 3 months since I started rebuilding it, but the HAWK is all fixed and ready to fly again. It looks just as if nothing had ever happened. 

CONSTRUCTION: (Rating 4) 

Upgrade to fiberglass airframe, fins, and boat tail. (I would next time) Add epoxy to fill paper nose attachment and use finish coating to smooth. (made is VERY durable and easy to shape) Add stiffener to inner tail cone tube. (added protection)

FLIGHT/RECOVERY: (Rating 4) 

Upgrade to 1/2" elastic shock cord, 6' long and make paper anchor bigger. Use Nomex® chute protector. Use 24" nylon chute instead of 18" mylar supplied.

Motors--
SU motors
E15-4
E30-4
Reload
F24-4W (works best)
F39-4T

DO NOT USE Estes D OR E engines as they will make it crash even in very light wind!

OVERALL: (Rating 4)

For under $30 it's a good kit even with the need for the 24" chute, upgrading the shock cord, and having to make your own decals. I plan on buying more of them in the future. Currently I've almost finished the Standard AGM-78 which I've upgraded to a 29mm motor, fiberglassed entirely, and used many HP techniques.